So it is spring break all round and seems Bishop has been the destination station for climbers. It has been fairly busy, at least more so than last time I was here, which was about 3 years ago. Anyway, the parking lots are slimming down now, and there were practically only 10 cars at the milks today. However what was left form the spring break rampage however was a lot of garbage. Tape, toilet paper, wrappers… but tape especially. Tape is litter as is anything else not there before our arrival. If only people would pick up their trash, stay on trail, etc etc... If Cedar and I had 5 cents for every piece we picked up, we’d have well hmmm, at least enough for laundry.
I recently did a problem called Beautiful gecko in the sads. It was hard and took me a good few days and a lot of tries. I fell at the 4th move so much that I felt programmed to fall until finally I didn’t. It has been upgraded to v12 (after numerous breaks) in the new guide book as have a few other problems while some have been downgraded. I am not an expert at grades but comparing that send to others of the same grade or to many v11's, I agree with Wills and others on the upgrade. Why am I talking about this? Probably because I am one of few on the 8a site to put it in as that and it affects my ranking. I don't want to get unreasonable shit for this. Despite the fact that I write this, I really don’t care too much about what others think, and the 8a thing and my position in it. (There will always be someone better).That is not why I am on 8a. The 8a card is an experiment that has been going on for less than a year. An experiment that is not working so perhaps when the due date comes up I’ll remove myself from it and keep my sends to myself as I have for years past. Why put in all this work updating, blogging etc if it is not feasible? Media it seems, only goes so far…
That being said: 8a is helpful for getting grade consensus though it does miss a majority of the population. Problems feel hard/ easy for different people and putting a set grade on them is just a guideline. Besides, everyone has an opinion. I didn’t put this problem in as the new grade so to effect my ranking, I put it in as that because it was hard. Period.